Friday, December 26, 2008

Christmastime and Veracruz

So the past few days have been absolutely mad but I will try a general recap of the highlights:

Pozadas and Parties
As mentioned in a previous blog, we are currently undergoing "The Marathon" here in Mexico which involves numerous Christmas parties and Pozadas (special Mexican Xmas parties). This has been better accomodated by the IH Christmas holiday. To round off the school year there was an IH Xmas dinner. This was a lot of fun although the British teachers at the school quickly revealed themselves when it came to attacking the open bar (as shown by the slightly pink faces in the photo). Raffle prizes were also won and I am now the proud owner of an IH T-shirt, although I would have prefered the printer/scanner which Zoe won (grrr...)
The IH party was of course only a "pre" for the Pozada that night. At Pozadas one usually ends up in a firend of a friend's house in some part of the City you will never remember, in the front garden, bashing pinatas, attempting to Salsa, lighting candles and singing painfully long Mexican Christmas songs.




Veracruz
A couple of days before Christmas I finally took my friend Vanessa up on her offer of staying with her family in Veracruz. Bus tickets were bought and we arrived in Poza Rica where her Mother had made us some delicious Pozole (Mexican bean/meat stew) before we took ourselves out to visit the town. Vanessa's family is lovely and her Grandmother is a particular riot, keen to tell me how much I look like "la novia de Principe Guillermo" (Kate Middleton) and share her views on our Royal Family. After explaining that the courts had in fact proved Princess Di was not murdered I decided it was best to give up agree that yes, it was an assasination all arranged by Al Fayed.
The next day Vannessa's mum took us to see nearby Tajin, a pre-hispanic city, initially constructed in the first Century. It reminded me of the Romans, in the sense that these early Pre-hispanic communities built specific buildings for religion, health and other Roman like purposes in a rather Roman like way and that, as Tajin was abandoned by the Spaniards, all that remains are these impressive ruins.

After this we watched Voladores (flyers), once a tradditional form of Totonac Indian worship. The flyers climb up to the top of a very high pole while one plays a wooden flute, attach themselves to a rope (attached to top of pole, obviously) which they twist around the top of the pole and fly down upside down:


Navidad en DF
While I could have gladly stayed with Vanessa in Veracruz for longer (and I intend to return), I had to get back to DF for Christmas. The 24th being the main event for Christmas in Mexico, we had a Mexican/Ameican/British Christmas dinner at Luis and Jenne's depa. We ate/drank, among other things; mole, guacamole, tequilla, turkey, pasta salad, mould wine, bread and butter pudding (the last two being my offerings).
On the 25th we had another meal at an American flat and hence a rather American Christmas day but merry all the same. However, gracias a youtube, everyone got to see the Queen's Christmas Message (many having never known it existed). Once again Queeny did not let us down and the British presence was felt. Another plus was leaving the party with half a ham (they were going away and unable to finish it)!
So far it's been a great holiday and, while very sappy, Christmas makes me feel very grateful for all the wonderful friends I have managed to make here and miss my fabulous friends and family back in Blighty.
While today has been a much needed recovery (I took myself off to the Fine Arts Gallery and read in the park) and water has never tasted so good I know this is only a pause as I shall be off again for New Years and tomorrow is Saturday...

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Guadalupe

Last weekend was the Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe, one of the most important religious days in the Mexican calander. It is believed that on this day Juan Diego (ni idea!) was finally successful in offering the Bishop Zumarraga a vision of the Virgin (he opened his cloak where a cascade of roses revealed her portrait [obviously]). Due to this the Capilla de Cerrito (chapel on the hill [photo above]) was built since it was on this hill that the Virgin had first appeared to Diego (the image below from the story was taken inside the chapel).
For the full story go to; http://www.caryana.org/miracle.html

As with Dia de los Muertos, this may be yet another example of the Catholic conquistadores trying to incorporate yet another Mayan image into the Catholic church in order to convert the indigenous Mexicans. However la Virgen is still, to this day a strong cultural symbol of Mexico and la Basilica in Mexico City is an extrmely popular pilgrimage destination. The weekend before last we visited both la Basilica and the Capilla de Cerrito, a beautiful little chapel overlooking D.F. While it would have been great to visit the Basilica on the 12th, el Dia de la Virgen marks the begining of what is known as the Guadalupe-Reyes Marathon in Mexico. This means 25 days of squeezing in as many parties as is humanly possible from the 12th right through till the 6th January. Hence duty called and most of this past weekend was spent attempting to salsa, drinking wine and eating tamales at Mexican friends' or "friend of a friend's" houses all over D.F.

An advantage of this is that I can feel my Spanish improving rapidly as the combination of classes at IH, revision at home (flashcards I love you) and being a noisy little Brit fortuante to have some great Mexican friends work together brilliantly. Granted this is slightly more of an excuse than a reason (hopefully I shall be able to add some photos of this soon...).