Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera Museums

My last week of holiday before school was spent in DF and so I had the chance to visit the two museums I have been keen to see for a long time; the Frida Kahlo and the Diego Rivera...


The Blue House
This is where Frida Kahlo was born and where she lived periodically with Diego Rivera. The house is in beautiful Coyoacan, is ovbviously blue and has works by Frida, Diego and other artists, plus letters they sent eachother, a great big pile of Communist literature and a mini pyramid in the garden.
After seeing the inside of the house (taking photos unfortunately prohibited) I practiced my Spanish watching the video at the museum: From what I can gather Kahlo, in many ways had a very unhappy life, with a husband who had various affairs (including one with her sister) and spent a lot of time in hospital (due to polio at the 6 and a bus accident in 1925). She was also childless and suffered many miscarriages which she often references in her paintings.
Although, on the other hand I'm not entirely sure life for Frida was ALL the doom and gloom she made out. I think she was an outgoing, confident human being, always favouring the more tradditional Mexican dress and painting herself with prominent Mexican features (thick eyebrows and yes, a bit of a tash). She also managed to have her own affair with Leon Trotsky while he was exiled in Mexico DF...

...However in the painting below she does liken herself to a wounded animal.

It was particularly fun visiting the museum with my dramatic friend Vanessa who wandered around the house comparing herself to Kahlo at every oppourtunity.

Below is a photo V took of me outside the house:


Either way it was a great day and fascinating to visit the wacky house of this wacky but talented artist with my extremely wacky friend.

Anahuacalli

Rivera designed Anahuacalli as a place to display his Pre-Columbian artefacts. It is made out of dark Volcanic stone and is reminiscent of a Maya tomb, inside being cool and dark. In all honesty I was expecting this place to be rather dull, being a bit of a pleb when it comes to ancient history but with the (free [of course]) tour guide I found it pretty interesting especially thinking how old many of the items in the museum are.

Diego's collection is huge, and includes models of warriors...

...childrens' dolls made from the historic version of playdough...
...and what may look like a jug but, when filled with certain levels of water, wacked and blown into correctly is in fact a musical instrument:
I also liked some Diego's personal touches especially his snake and Communist (what else?) themed ceilings:

And the random frogs/toads on the ground floor:
From the terraza there are views of the surrounding city and volcanoes in the distance although I am sure they were easier to see when Dego built his museum and Mexico City was not one of the most polluted places in the world (got to love that filthy sky)!

Outside of the museum there was also an alebrije; a paper maiche cross between a monster and an animal. These are a very common and tradditional type of art in Mexico and come in all forms and sizes (although this one was a biggy). Having mocked other tourists for taking photos of themselves "fighting" the monster, Zoe and I later did the very same:
Overall it was a great week and one which makes me very grateful to live in such an interesting city with so much to do and such interesting inhabitants.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

2009 and Kings

Ok so after way too long a gap I will now be tryng to update my blog for January before February comes along with even more to add.

New Year in Acapulco
As mentioned in my previous blog I spent New Year in Acapulco at the beach as I was very kindly invited by my roomate. Acapulco is a lot of fun and a very popular tourist destination, being one of the nearest beaches from Mexico City. It was therefore packed with "Chilangos" (Mexico D.F dwellers) for the complete NY period making it a great place for parties but not for virgin beaches and stunning scenery. Either way a good time was had by all and the hangovers were probably not as bad as we deserved although the us joruney back could have been shorter...



6th January - Piñatas and the Arrival of The Kings

The arrival of the 3 Kings is yet another important festival in Mexico. Although many poor Mexicans do still have to go to work, the day does not pass by unnoticed. Fortunately for Zoe and I, IH was still on holiday and so we took ourselves off to the Mueso de Arte Popular (as mentioned in a previous blog) to see their Piñata exhibition (what else?).
[In the picture below I am just in front of a random Paper Mache peacock which has very little to do with the exhibtion, I just liked the bird.] ANYWAY... Piñatas are extremely popular at Meixcan parties and are traddtionally star shaped with 7 points to represent the 7 Deadly Sins. You then bash them about untill gifts (usually sweets and little toys) fall out. This is done blindfolded in turns and is actually a lot of fun as I have been lucky enough to experiance first hand. The exhibition however had a range of beautiful and unique piñatas. My favourites probably being the Kings (above) and this little guy below: After the museum I then had to buy la Rosca for the party Vanesa and I organised for Dia de los Reyes Magos. This party essentially involves gathering friends and eating Rosca (a sweet bread; above) with hot chocolate.
The only tricky part is cutting the Rosca as baked inside are small dolls (2 in our case) and whoever touches them with the knife is doomed to make tamales for all the people at the party on 2nd February.
The dolls are believed to represent the "hiding" of Jesus to protect him from Herodes, however I still don't know the significance of 2nd February although I'm sure I shall within the next fortnight...
Fortunately I was spared from the making tamales but look forward to trying Zoe and Pat's efforts shortly. Hahahahaha...

Friday, December 26, 2008

Christmastime and Veracruz

So the past few days have been absolutely mad but I will try a general recap of the highlights:

Pozadas and Parties
As mentioned in a previous blog, we are currently undergoing "The Marathon" here in Mexico which involves numerous Christmas parties and Pozadas (special Mexican Xmas parties). This has been better accomodated by the IH Christmas holiday. To round off the school year there was an IH Xmas dinner. This was a lot of fun although the British teachers at the school quickly revealed themselves when it came to attacking the open bar (as shown by the slightly pink faces in the photo). Raffle prizes were also won and I am now the proud owner of an IH T-shirt, although I would have prefered the printer/scanner which Zoe won (grrr...)
The IH party was of course only a "pre" for the Pozada that night. At Pozadas one usually ends up in a firend of a friend's house in some part of the City you will never remember, in the front garden, bashing pinatas, attempting to Salsa, lighting candles and singing painfully long Mexican Christmas songs.




Veracruz
A couple of days before Christmas I finally took my friend Vanessa up on her offer of staying with her family in Veracruz. Bus tickets were bought and we arrived in Poza Rica where her Mother had made us some delicious Pozole (Mexican bean/meat stew) before we took ourselves out to visit the town. Vanessa's family is lovely and her Grandmother is a particular riot, keen to tell me how much I look like "la novia de Principe Guillermo" (Kate Middleton) and share her views on our Royal Family. After explaining that the courts had in fact proved Princess Di was not murdered I decided it was best to give up agree that yes, it was an assasination all arranged by Al Fayed.
The next day Vannessa's mum took us to see nearby Tajin, a pre-hispanic city, initially constructed in the first Century. It reminded me of the Romans, in the sense that these early Pre-hispanic communities built specific buildings for religion, health and other Roman like purposes in a rather Roman like way and that, as Tajin was abandoned by the Spaniards, all that remains are these impressive ruins.

After this we watched Voladores (flyers), once a tradditional form of Totonac Indian worship. The flyers climb up to the top of a very high pole while one plays a wooden flute, attach themselves to a rope (attached to top of pole, obviously) which they twist around the top of the pole and fly down upside down:


Navidad en DF
While I could have gladly stayed with Vanessa in Veracruz for longer (and I intend to return), I had to get back to DF for Christmas. The 24th being the main event for Christmas in Mexico, we had a Mexican/Ameican/British Christmas dinner at Luis and Jenne's depa. We ate/drank, among other things; mole, guacamole, tequilla, turkey, pasta salad, mould wine, bread and butter pudding (the last two being my offerings).
On the 25th we had another meal at an American flat and hence a rather American Christmas day but merry all the same. However, gracias a youtube, everyone got to see the Queen's Christmas Message (many having never known it existed). Once again Queeny did not let us down and the British presence was felt. Another plus was leaving the party with half a ham (they were going away and unable to finish it)!
So far it's been a great holiday and, while very sappy, Christmas makes me feel very grateful for all the wonderful friends I have managed to make here and miss my fabulous friends and family back in Blighty.
While today has been a much needed recovery (I took myself off to the Fine Arts Gallery and read in the park) and water has never tasted so good I know this is only a pause as I shall be off again for New Years and tomorrow is Saturday...

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Guadalupe

Last weekend was the Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe, one of the most important religious days in the Mexican calander. It is believed that on this day Juan Diego (ni idea!) was finally successful in offering the Bishop Zumarraga a vision of the Virgin (he opened his cloak where a cascade of roses revealed her portrait [obviously]). Due to this the Capilla de Cerrito (chapel on the hill [photo above]) was built since it was on this hill that the Virgin had first appeared to Diego (the image below from the story was taken inside the chapel).
For the full story go to; http://www.caryana.org/miracle.html

As with Dia de los Muertos, this may be yet another example of the Catholic conquistadores trying to incorporate yet another Mayan image into the Catholic church in order to convert the indigenous Mexicans. However la Virgen is still, to this day a strong cultural symbol of Mexico and la Basilica in Mexico City is an extrmely popular pilgrimage destination. The weekend before last we visited both la Basilica and the Capilla de Cerrito, a beautiful little chapel overlooking D.F. While it would have been great to visit the Basilica on the 12th, el Dia de la Virgen marks the begining of what is known as the Guadalupe-Reyes Marathon in Mexico. This means 25 days of squeezing in as many parties as is humanly possible from the 12th right through till the 6th January. Hence duty called and most of this past weekend was spent attempting to salsa, drinking wine and eating tamales at Mexican friends' or "friend of a friend's" houses all over D.F.

An advantage of this is that I can feel my Spanish improving rapidly as the combination of classes at IH, revision at home (flashcards I love you) and being a noisy little Brit fortuante to have some great Mexican friends work together brilliantly. Granted this is slightly more of an excuse than a reason (hopefully I shall be able to add some photos of this soon...).

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

November Bank Holiday Weekend


This last weekend was a bank holiday and, unlike Independence Day this time we all had Monday off. This meant that after a quick class in the South of the city on Saturday morning, I was picked up and taken (by friends, not kidnappers) to Cuernavaca, just south of Mexico City and known as the 'land of eternal spring'. Although not 'land of eternal British spring' as each day the sun was strong and the nights were warm.
We stayed in a campsite by the River (shown in photos above) which we actually swam across a few times. The campsite itself had warm springs, which it used for water and to supply the pools we spent many hours sunbathing around (and rope-swinging into).
In the evenings we had BBQs and made bonfires to sit around. Unfortunately Pat and I had to sleep in the "palace" which we had bought for 200 pesos from the supermarket ealier that day:
In spite of all his enthusiasm for such a 'classic' tent it turned out Pat had no idea how to put it up (happily I have no issue with being bossy and so she was up in no time) and seemed surprised that the hard ground can be so "unforgiving". .
Either way, it was great to have a break from the city and enjoy the sunshine on my first trip outside of Mexico City and it has given me a new found appreciation of my matress in Mineria.

Friday, November 14, 2008

Last Week (of the 3rd November)

I don't know if anyone heard about this over in the UK but on the 4th November there was a jet plane crash in Polanco which killed 13 people including Maurino (an important government minister and potential Mexican president) amongst other ministers. What is most suspicious is that those on the jet were most invloved in the action against the drug cartels who are unforunately powerful in Mexico.
It was a very strange experience as I was teaching a class about Guy Fawkes Day at the time and as my students were asking me why we celebrate treason which never actually happened they started recieving calls about the crash (many people work in Polanco, including myself and my students).
The crash is still under investigation (by British experts none the less) so no one knows for sure how or why it happened.
If you are interested this is the info the bbc had; http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/7709877.stm

You may have noticed that the accident occured on 4th November and so in Mexico Obama only made the 2nd page of all the broadsheet newspapers. I went to the "English" (ahem) pub to watch the results. The place was full of excited Americans all supporting Obama and taking another shot of tequilla for each state that went blue. It was clearly the Gringo place to be as it was even reported in the expat newspaper here (http://www.thenews.com.mx/home/imprime_home.asp?cve_edicion_cont=296&cve_home=590) and one of my good friends (American wife of my Mexican friend Luis) was interviewed for the national news.

Finally, after such an eventful week, it was nice to have a reasonably relaxed weekend. On the Saturday I went to Zoe's new flat for dinner and an Ugly Betty binge (she has been downloading the new series with her fancy high speed internet... grr...) and then for drinks al depa de Luis y Jenne.
On Sunday we walked to the Museo Tamayo, a modern art gallery here. I really enjoyed the well chosen exhibitions which focused on the Mexican/North American history and politics.

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Halloween & Dia de los Muertos

Having never had much interest in Halloween nor having really heard of Dia de los Muertos, the weekend of the 31st was certainly different for me.

Working at a school with a lot of American teachers (or gringos, as the Mexicans unkindly call them - based on the American Forces green uniform ... "green go") there was obviously a halloween party organised on the Friday. It was a lot of fun and, as you might imagine there was a lot of 'in school' gossiping and drama - it seems that teaching in a school is not much different to going to school (obviously I am happy to share the gory details via msn ;) )

Sunday 2nd November is the main celebration of the lives of the dead, a trdditional Mexican Festival where it is believed the souls of the dead are able to visit most easily. Families usually make offerings to their dead in their homes. These usually incude food and drink which that person particularly liked during their lifetime. There are different days to celebrate the lives of those who died young and the disabled and I imagine these are quite sad, yet Dia de los Muertos was very cheerful.
The festival was begun by the Aztecs and later influenced by the Catholics who moved the date from August to All Souls Day when their attempts to ban such a sacilegious festival failed.
While the festival is most keenly celebrated in the more indigenous parts of Mexico, there was still no lack of enthusiasm in D.F. We went to the historical centre (the Zocalo, above) to watch tradditonal dances (see below) and view the many public offerings made in the plaza.Below is a photo of one of the many offerings. The orange flowers are tradditional for this festival as are the chocolate skulls.